It’s been seven months and the name of this blog is now wrong. I left the world of work on 22 February, we packed up our apartment, put our things in storage, and began our six- month break one week later. Since that time, we’ve had wonderful weeks of snow in the mountain chalet; adventures in the fragrant tropics in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia; a fascinating cultural experience in Japan, and 10,400 kilometres of driving through Canada’s outstanding scenery.
And of course in that time, we have had fantastic visits with friends, and with family. We were overwhelmed by the generosity of all, and so appreciated the time we had with too many people we don’t see enough.
With such a fantastic journey now sadly behind us, it’s really difficult to pinpoint the highs and the lows. Here is a very rough cut:
Best shower: Nong Kiau Riverside, Laos (Christine) – the hot water, pressure and dispersal pattern were better than any we had had for months and months, including in our own apartment in Geneva. Second runner up – Gladys and Fil’s (Julia) – great nozzle, tonnes of hot water. Oh, and Fia and Joel’s up there as well. It’s hard to beat a view of the mountains surrounding Whitehorse from your walk-in shower.
Best bear: Two grizzlies on hillside of route 97 – grazing and not noticing any of us rubberneckers. Tied maybe with beautiful golden black bear, and her silly cub at Crandell mountain, Waterton. (hard to pick of the 21 + bears spotted this trip. More than I have actually seen in my lifetime.)
Best meal: Kobe, Japan with Lori and Julia. We couldn’t read the menu, didn’t know what we were getting – but wow, did the chef make sure we ate well – beautiful dish after gorgeous, delicate, dish. Even the vegetarian left thrilled with every mouthful. Runner up- all of the food at the Boat Landing, Luang Nam Tha, Laos. Wait for the Laos people to take over the culinary world – they have a lot of flavours on offer.
Weirdest shop: Clothes shops for dogs including baby, sports, miniskirts, hip hop and classic preppy fashions. In Japan of course. Though I was surprised to see one in Edmonton as well. And of course, there must be at least one here in NYC.
Worst weather: continuous rainstorm on trek near Luang Nam Tha, Laos – see previous blog. Possibly tied with 90 km/h all-day gusts in Waterton, but we could drink martinis in the Prince of Wales hotel for that one and just watch the winds push the lake around.
Best hotel: It’s tough to pick as they were each so different. And while I appreciate cheap sleeps, we’ve decided that we’re too old to pay five dollars for a hotel room. The walls ARE paper thin, the bedding almost not passable, and there is definitely never any room to do yoga.
Amongst the best was the Nong Kiau Riverside (also had best showers). The rooms are like those you dream of in Asia – dark hardwood, high ceilings with lazy fans, four-poster beds draped with new mosquito nets. Views of the mountains and the river from a balcony that was great for yoga. A path leading into the forest, used by real working elephants.
We especially loved the fact the owners invited us to take part in the puja to bless the hotel – presided by local monks. This was a very moving experience, replete with young and eldery monks in saffron robes, chanting, offerings and prayers with the local community. The mood wasn’t even broken when the eldest monk lit a cigarette and inhaled deeply.
Most memorable accommodation; Wendy’s, in west Dawson City, Yukon. We set up the tent on a strawberry patch, near Wendy’s cabin on her ten acre forested property. There is no running water or electricity – and she has braved 12 years there, including all of the snowy cold winters. Need water? Melt snow. Need the toilet – it’s out in the forest, with one wall for privacy, and several good magazines. Need to sleep in the dark? That just doesn’t happen at latitude 64 North in summer time. Loved it. And loved the Dawson City music festival.
Worst meal: Breakfast at the Khao Yai Garden Lodge, Khao Yai, Thailand. How can you screw up a boiled egg and toast? Easy. Use that really bad sweet white bread you can buy at 711. Toast it, and boil the eggs hours before anyone gets up or even the day before. And serve really crummy coffee with it. At least it was “included” in price of rooms.
Most moving experience: Listening to singer Anne Rust D’Eye, accompanied by a group of talented Canadian musicians, sing “Peace in the Valley” during the gospel performance at the Dawson City Music Festival in the Grande Palace Theatre. We had just heard that a dear relative of mine had died in Edmonton. I appreciated the way Rust D’Eye, who is not particularly famous, brought her full voice, and deep passion to the song. We sensed the spirit of my relative soaring, happy and peaceful, over the Klondike, and had a big cry.
Most cramped journey – 18 of us and all of our luggage, in a vehicle built for about 8, for three hours from Nong Kiau to Luang Prabang, Laos. Beats any previous VW Bug record. I was glad the box of live somethings under my legs did not break free.
Best camping: Ruckle Provincial Park, Salt Spring Island, British Columbia. We pitched our tent on the rocks two metres from the breaking waves. We marvelled at dozens of sprawling violet starfish. Harbour seals spied on us. The sun warmed the salty air to 30 degrees. The moon was full and its sparkling light trail reached us across the sea. And everyone, everyone at the campground said Hello when we passed on the trails. This was Canada at its beautiful, happy best.
I can’t even begin to include any of New York City in this list. It will be the subject of many blogs to come.
